The 5 most stylish trends of the fall
After celebrating the 90s, fashion is inspired this fall-winter 2022-2023 season by the fashion of the 2000s, flirting with too-much and bad taste. While Glenn Martens, artistic director of Diesel, dares to wear ultra-low-rise pants, including an immodest model already seen on Julia Fox, and Guess is reissuing its archive pieces, the Italian label Blumarine is resuscitating the cult butterfly top sported by Mariah Carey in 2000. Also seen on the catwalks, the mini-dresses adored by Paris Hilton or the Von Dutch-style trucker caps.
Rarely has a color competed so much with black. Declined in all its shades, pink takes over the year 2022 and allows itself all the eccentricities. At Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli unveils a brand new shade of pink, Pink PP, which dresses almost its entire collection and goes wonderfully with all skin tones. For its part, the young label Avellano, which has made latex its specialty, offers a marshmallow tint on tight and wet pieces, like Versace and its long candy pink corset skirt. Glamorous at Michael Kors and Lanvin, it replaces the black dress or jumpsuit, while it becomes theatrical at Richard Quinn and surreal at Loewe.
The XXL coat
For the fall-winter 2022-2023 season, the coat is not in half measures. Between opulence, elegance and fantasy, coats stand out as the centerpiece of the winter silhouette.
At Diesel, Glenn Martens has fun with maximalist denim creations while Miu Miu reinterprets the masculine shouldered overcoat, Off-White the coachman’s coat, Ottolinger the long puffer jacket and Raf Simons the bomber jacket in an integral version.
At Balmain or Coperni, faux fur comes in a pastel version for a girly, muffled look. In another style, Demna offers at Balenciaga a faux fur coat with white inserts that would easily seduce Cruella
D’enfer while Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent evokes the glamor of the 70s with long pieces of crazy elegance. You have understood it, the Duffle Coat, the Parka or the women’s pea coat have their place in this winter’s wardrobes.
Finally Donatella Versace accompanies her collection around the carmine quilted coat corset or brightly colored satin overcoat.
If jeans have been part of the contemporary uniform for several decades, they are coming back to the fore this season, both in the men’s and women’s collections. This fashion trend is unanimous among major designers. Indeed, we find him with Glenn Martens at Diesel who celebrates the Y2K heritage of the Italian label. At Balenciaga, Demna continues to offer large and androgynous models associated with XXL hoodies and bags that look like garbage bags. At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing brings the biker up to date with paneled jeans that drip on rangers. At Celine, Hedi Slimane swears only by straight jeans worn with small jackets, blousons and coats and black boots for a very Parisian look. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri experimented with denim with corseted trousers, flowers and jackets in raw canvas or adorned with floral jacquards. Even Fendi and Dries Van Noten and Alaia are trying their hand at denim with sensual and refined silhouettes.
Special mention for Matthieu Blazy with his first collection as artistic director of Bottega Veneta, who opened his show with a jeans/white leather tank top look.
The mini skirt
The most striking piece of the beginning of the year, the Miu Miu mini-skirt announced the strong comeback of this garment launched by Courrèges and Mary Quant in the 1960s. Almost reduced to the state of a belt at Diesel by Glenn Martens, worn under a long coat at Ambush, offered in a wrap version revisited at Coperni or in vinyl at Courrèges, in homage to its heritage, the mini-skirt is also intended to be glamazone at Balmain associated with thigh-high boots, while even Chanel and Hermès risk to offer short and tight models. For its part, Miu Miu repeats the exercise with an indecent variation of denim shorts.